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George Inn
Hubberholme,
North Yorkshire

Discover Hubberholme once, and you will keep coming back. Nestled into the side of Yockenthwaite Moor, Hubberholme is surrounded by steep fells and run through by the young River Wharfe. It is made up of the pub, a church, and a farmhouse, and that is about it. To say it is a village of great tranquility, is like saying the Vatican has a religious feel about it.

The George has been running for about 350 years and has maintained a strong connection with the fine church across the bridge. Indeed, when the famous 'auction-by-candle' takes place on the first Monday of every year, it is the vicar who acts as auctioneer. The evening starts with the lighting of the candle, and the bidding gets under way. They are bidding for the grazing rights on a 16-acre field owned by the church, and known as the 'Poor Pasture'. The winning bid, whatever that may be, is the one that is on the table when the candle finally burns out.

In a nod of respect to such ancient traditions, a candle is kept burning on the bar for as long as the pub is open.

Up above the George is Scar House, now a National Trust rental cottage, where the track up to it is so narrow, steep and rutted, that even the National Trust advises that "...arrival during daylight hours is recommended...". Scar House is an old farmhouse that is significant in the history of the Quaker movement, from the day that George Fox came calling.

George Fox was an interesting chap. He had the notion that there was a little bit of God in everyone, which is a wonderful sentiment in this day and age, but in the 1600s this threatened the very fabric of the social, political, color and gender hierarchy. Britain was built on bigotry, and his view that God was in us all conflicted with the establishment.

Of course his belief that priests and the Church stood as a hindrance between people and God would probably also guarantee him some time in some dank dungeon somewhere. Which it did.

He did not set out to set up a whole new Church, but you know, in the end, if you can't beat 'em, then set up a whole new Church. George Fox took a walk in 1652 around Yorkshire and made it up the narrow, steep and rutted track up to Scar House, presumably during the day. There he met James Tennant and his wife whose farmhouse was already being used by some Quakers, with a little burial ground out back. The aforementioned establishment got onto James Tennant and threw him into a jail in York, where he later died for his faith.

John Boynton Priestly, or J.B. Priestly as he is commonly known, has his ashes scattered in Hubberholme churchyard. He is most famous for the play 'An Inspector Calls' which he wrote in 1946 and which set a high standard for traditional 'Who Dunnit' dramas. He frequented the George Inn, as if there is much else to do in Hubberholme. Like so many venerable Englishmen, many famous quotes are attributed to him, such as the one so many of us can relate to: "There was no respect for youth when I was young, and now that I am old, there is no respect for age -- I missed it coming and going."

He was opinionated. He turned down both a knighthood and a peerage, but finally, mellowing, accepted an Order of Merit in 1977. He fought on the front lines at Flanders in the First World War, and was second only to Winston Churchill when it came to radio voices of the Second World War.

My favorite line of his comes from one of his more famous pieces, 'The Good Companions', who were traveling players: "To say that these men paid their shillings to watch twenty-two hirelings kick a ball is merely to say that a violin is wood and catgut, that Hamlet is so much paper and ink. For a shilling the Bruddersford United AFC offered you Conflict and Art." I follow a soccer team just like that.


To Get There:
Easy really. I think. Get to the Yorkshire Dales (there is good advice if ever I heard it!). Head up Wharfedale and turn left. While Hubberholme claims to have the only pub in Langstrothdale, it actually the only settlement of any significance in Langstrothdale, so you really cannot miss it.

Lesson Learned



Sometimes a great pub can generate its own world. Hubberholme is such a place. If you need to unwind, this could be the place for you.

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