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Kings Arms
Askrigg
,
North Yorkshire

The last time we were in Askrigg, four years ago, we bypassed the Kings Arms, opting instead to go a few hundred yards up the road to the Crown, which we thought was wonderful, because the Crown was down-to-earth and the Kings Arms looked snooty. Give a pub a chance!

This turned out to be a very nice pub, and I spent a couple of very pleasant hours in here before Doris, all rested up, joined me for the balance of the evening.

The main bar room is a little too cavernous for my liking, and the food blackboard, whilst doubtless appealing to many people, yells 'Restaurant!!' to me. The cavernous nature of the room can be explained by the fact that the pub was built in 1760 as racing stables, was converted to an inn in 1860 with the bar being converted from the former tack room. It won the Yorkshire Life Hotel of the Year award for 'outstanding culinary credentials and highly individual period ambience'.

The menu was adventurous, varied and (as it turned out) had several rather tasty items on it too. They had also built a bay-windowed area that hinted at being a mini-conservatory, the bane of pub development.

But the little room where we ended up was very pleasant indeed, all oak panels, parquet floors and a nice Victorian fireplace. I started on the Black Sheep Best, but they served it too cold, and the move to the Black Bull Bitter was quite decidedly a good one. The food, when it came, was in small portions, but as Doris pointed out, we did only order starters and dessert, and I would agree that the adventuresome nature of the food was a welcome break from a run of standard pub fare.

All in all, this was a great evening, I thoroughly relaxed doing a little reading and writing and watching people, and taking all kinds of time over the beer, which I appreciated as I always do. Some of the pub visits we have enjoyed on this trip have been fleeting in the extreme, but this one was leisurely indeed.

This was the 'Drovers Arms' in the series 'All Creatures Great and Small', a much-loved and long-running BBC series about a Yorkshire Dales veterinarian in the 1930s. The whole village was used as a backdrop, and some tourist business is still done on the back of that program's success.

There is not much else to say about Askrigg. With many other villages I can happily go off on tangents about local history and characters but this place had its roots in the textile industry, then the BBC filmed here, then the tourists came. There are some nice, proud-looking 17th and 18th Century buildings and even some rather nice waterfalls nearby, but really not much to hold your rapt attention for days on end.

As a footnote, the 250 villagers of Askrigg in the Dales are fighting to prevent part of the Kings Arms being turned into holiday flats, which they believe would ruin the atmosphere of the lovely old building. I am not sure if they were successful or not, but that certainly looks like a couple of builders throwing stuff out of the upstairs window in the main picture to this section.


To Get There:
Askrigg is on the north side of the River Ure, away from the main A684 Wensleydale road, a slight distance that is the town's blessing. Turn off the A684 at Worton, by the Victoria Arms and head north across the river. The pub is just past the market cross, on the left side.


Lesson Learned



Never judge a book by its cover. You can miss out on some rather nice pubs if you dismiss the establishment based on its outward appearance. A pub is more than bricks, mortar and a marketing strategy.

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